Vitamin C molecule |
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, interferes with pigment synthesis at various oxidative steps of melanin production. It has a reducing effect and can alter melanin from jet black to light tan. Vitamin C interferes with melanin synthesis by reducing oxidized dopaquinone, interrupting DHICA oxidation and interacting with copper ions at the active site of tyrosinase. Vitamin C acts as an Reactive Oxygen Spieces scavenger by donating electrons to neutralize free radicals found in the aqueous compartment of the cell. One of the disadvantages of Vitamin C is its chemical instability in aqueous solution and its tendency to oxidize and denature. The hydrophilic nature of Vitamin C also limits its skin penetration, unless the stratum corneum barrier is disrupted. The more stable ascorbate ester, magnesium-l-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (MAP) is more lipophilic and has a greater permeation through the stratum corneum.
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TYROSINASE INHIBITORS Polyphenols Benzaldehyde and Benzoate Derivatives Gallic Acid and Derivatives Long-Chain Lipids and Steroids INHIBITORS OF MELANOSOMAL TRANSFER ANTIOXIDANTS ACCELERATORS OF EPIDERMAL TURNOVER AND DESQUAMATORS TRANSCRIPTIONAL REGULATION OF MELANOGENIC ENZYMES |
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