| Introduction
 Arbutin, (hydroquinone-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside) a naturally  occurring -d-glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone. The hydroquinone  glucoside is a botanically derived compound found in certain plant species,  such as bearberry, cranberries, blueberries, wheat, pears and the fresh fruit  of the California buckeye, Aesculus californica. The active component,  hydroquinone, is released by the hydrolysis of the glucoside fraction. As it is  released slowly, the use of arbutin may be less irritating than using  hydroquinone directly. The mild effect of arbutin is attributed to the controlled  release of hydroquinone as a result of in-vivo cleavage of the glycosidic bond.  Arbutin is present in 2 forms, namely alpha and beta-arbutin. It appears that  alpha-arbutin offers higher stability and efficacy compared to the beta form.
   Mode of action
 Arbutin exerted its effect through a controlled release of  hydroquinone by the in vivo hydrolysis of the glycosidic bond. It is reported  by various researchers to inhibit the oxidation of L-DOPA catalysed by mushroom  tyrosinase. A recent study indicated that arbutin inhibits melanin synthesis by  inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This appears to be due to the inhibition of  melanosomal tyrosinase activity and Pmel-17 protein at noncytotoxic  concentrations rather than the suppression of this enzyme’s synthesis and  expression. It also inhibits the maturation of melanosomes, possibly by its  reported influence on DHICA (5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid) polymerase  activity. It is thought that the activity of arbutin is driven by the  structural homologies that it shares with the substrate tyrosine. It was showed  that arbutin inhibits the oxidation of L-tyrosine (monophenolase activity)  catalysed by mushroom tyrosinase and that it competes for active binding sites  in tyrosinase without influencing the mRNA transcription of tyrosinase or being  oxidized.  However, arbutin itself was  oxidized as a monophenol substrate at an extremely slow rate, and the oxidation  was accelerated as soon as catalytic amounts (0.01 mM) of l-3,4-  dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) became available as a cofactor.
    Types of arbutin
 To increase the efficiency, á-glucosides of arbutin had been  chemically synthesized because they hydrolyze more easily to release  hydroquinone by á-glycosidases in cells. Synthetic forms of arbutin, alpha-arbutin  and deoxyarbutin, exhibit greater ability to inhibit tyrosinase than the  naturally occurring compound.
 Studies have shown that α-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl  -glucopyranoside) demonstrates an even stronger inhibitory effect on human  tyrosinase activity than arbutin itself. This effect was achieved without  affecting mRNA expression of enzyme in cultured human melanoma cells and a  three-dimensional human skin model. α-Arbutin has widely replaced arbutin as  the chosen skin-lightening agent in topical skin preparations because it is  more effective and stable in producing the desired effects on human skin.
 Deoxyarbutin (dA), a synthetic form of arbutin synthesized  without the hydroxyl moiety, provides a promising treatment for reducing skin  hyperpigmentation. dA shows reversible inhibition of tyrosinase activity with  associated skin lightening in both a hairless guinea pig model system and in  human skin. In a human clinical trial, topical treatment with dA for 12 weeks  resulted in a significant or a slight reduction in overall skin lightness and  improvement of solar lentigines in a population of light-skinned individuals but  there was no significant clinical response in the subset of dark-skinned  patients. The reversibility of dA’s impact on skin pigmentation suggests that  the compound does not permanently destroy melanocytes. In addition to the  reported efficacy, it has been found that dA is less cytotoxic/cytostatic than  HQ in treatment of cultured human melanocytes. It has also been reported that  dA and associated second-generation derivatives, dose-dependently inhibit  tyrosinase hydroxylation and DOPAoxidase activity of tyrosinase. This may be  attributed to the chemical structure of dA, as the deoxysugars may increase  skin penetration and binding affinity for tyrosinase.
 Higher concentrations of arbutin are more efficacious than  lower concentrations, but may cause paradoxical hyperpigmentation. Despite the  safety of arbutin as an agent to lighten skin, some reports failed to confirm  its effect in clinical trials.     |